1 pound eggplant, purple or white
 sea salt
 freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil
1  large garlic clove, pressed
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
2 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro
 juice of 1/2 small lemon
 lemon wedges, tomato wedges, and olives, to finish

Remove wide ribbons of the eggplant skin, leaving vertical bands of skin. Slice the eggplant into 1/2-inch rounds, salt generously, and set on a plate for an hour or longer if time allows. Rinse, then squeeze the eggplant dry in a towel. (If you are using white eggplant, peel all of it, because the skins tend to be tough.)

Heat the oil in a large nonstick skillet. Add the eggplant and cook over medium-high heat, turning occasionally, until well browned on both sides, about 15 minutes. Add the garlic, about 1/2 cup water, the cumin, and coriander, reduce the heat, and mash the eggplant with a fork until it’s broken into a jamlike consistency. This can take 15 to 30 minutes, depending on the eggplant. Add more water as it cooks, to help it break down. You can let the excess cook off when the eggplant is finally soft. Add the cilantro and lemon juice. Taste for salt and season with pepper. Mound in a shallow bowl and serve warm or at room temperature, plain or garnished with lemon wedges, tomato wedges, and olives.